What size portable power station do I need for camping?
Add up the watt-hours you need: device watts multiplied by hours of use, for every device, then add roughly 20 to 30 percent for inverter losses, cold weather and ageing batteries. Then check the continuous and surge AC ratings clear your hungriest appliance. As a guide, about 200 to 500 Wh covers phones and lights, 500 to 1500 Wh suits weekend trips with a compact fridge, and 1500 Wh and above suits longer off-grid stays.
Key takeaways
- Size in watt-hours. Watts multiplied by hours, plus a 20 to 30 percent margin.
- Output matters as much as capacity. Continuous and surge ratings decide what you can actually start.
- Plan how you will recharge. Mix AC, 12 V driving charge and solar on UK trips.
- Chemistry depends on use. LiFePO4 suits frequent off-grid use; lighter lithium-ion suits compact units.
- Run fridges on DC where possible. It is usually more efficient than going through AC and the mains brick.
Portable power stations have become standard kit for UK camping and campervan trips. They charge phones, run a compact fridge, keep a CPAP machine going overnight, and remove the need to hunt for a hook-up every evening. The hard part is choosing a capacity that matches your kit without buying a unit that is heavier and costlier than you need.
This guide explains a simple watt-hour calculation, sensible size tiers, surge versus continuous power, recharge options, battery chemistry, and the ports that matter in the field. When you are ready to compare models, browse the CamperNV portable power collection.
Start with watt-hours, not marketing labels
Capacity is usually listed in watt-hours (Wh). A practical estimate for a single device is:
- Device watts x hours of use = watt-hours needed
Example: a 40 W camping fridge running 10 hours draws about 400 Wh on paper. Real fridges cycle on and off, so actual use is often lower, but it is safer to plan with a margin. Add every device you expect to run, then add roughly 20 to 30 percent for inverter losses, cold weather, and ageing batteries.
If you only know amp-hours and voltage, multiply Ah x V to get Wh (for example, 50 Ah at 12 V is about 600 Wh). Stick to Wh when comparing portable stations so you are not mixing 12 V leisure battery language with AC inverter ratings.
Small, medium, and large tiers for camping
Exact cut-offs vary by brand, but these tiers help most UK campers and van travellers shortlist sensibly.
| Tier | Capacity | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Small | About 200 to 500 Wh | Phones, cameras, laptop top-ups, LED lights, short CPAP nights with careful load management |
| Medium | About 500 to 1500 Wh | Weekend campervan trips with a compact fridge, device charging, occasional kettle or induction use if the inverter can handle the surge |
| Large | About 1500 Wh and above | Longer off-grid stays, multiple devices, higher fridge duty cycles, more reserve when solar is weak |
Families who run a fridge all day plus lights, routers, and camera batteries often feel happier in the medium-to-large band. Solo tent campers who mainly charge phones can stay small and save weight in the boot.
Continuous power vs surge power
Capacity (Wh) tells you how long you can run. Output (W) tells you what you can start. Motors and compressors need a short surge above their running watts. A fridge might cruise at 40 to 60 W yet demand a higher spike when the compressor kicks in. Kettles and induction hobs are hungrier still.
Check both the continuous AC rating and the surge rating on the station. If either figure is below your hungriest appliance, that appliance will not run reliably even if the watt-hour pack looks large.
Bottom line
Match the inverter to the load first, then size the battery for the hours you need.
How you will recharge on UK trips
- AC wall charging: fastest top-up at home or on hook-up before you leave a site.
- Car or van 12 V charging: useful while driving, though input rates are often modest compared with a mains charger.
- Solar input: ideal for multi-day wilder pitches when daylight cooperates. Match panel wattage and connector type to the station's solar input limit.
Many owners mix all three. Drive to charge on travel days, unfold a foldable panel on longer stops, and use mains when a campsite hook-up is available. Planning recharge paths is as important as picking a Wh number.
Li-ion vs LiFePO4 in plain terms
Two chemistries dominate portable stations:
- Lithium-ion (often NMC-style packs): typically lighter for a given Wh rating, popular in compact units where carry weight matters.
- LiFePO4: generally favoured for cycle life and thermal stability, common in larger stations aimed at frequent off-grid use.
For occasional weekend camping, either chemistry can work if the capacity and ports are right. For weekly van life or heavy fridge use, LiFePO4's longevity is often worth the extra mass. Always follow the maker's temperature guidance. Cold mornings reduce available power until packs warm up.
Ports and outputs worth checking
- AC sockets for kettles, chargers, and CPAP power supplies (watch the watt limit).
- USB-C PD ports for modern laptops and phones without bulky bricks.
- USB-A for older kit and lights.
- 12 V cigarette or XT-style outputs for fridges that prefer DC.
- Anderson or similar high-current DC inputs and outputs on larger units.
Running a fridge on DC is usually more efficient than converting to AC and back through the fridge's mains brick. If your cool box supports 12 V, prefer that path when the station offers a suitable socket.
Fridge and CPAP notes
For fridges, estimate daily Wh from average draw, then double-check surge capability. Keep the fridge in the shade and pre-chilled before you leave home so the compressor works less hard.
For CPAP, read the machine's power supply label in watts, multiply by hours asleep, and add margin for heated hoses or humidifiers if you use them. Many travellers keep a dedicated mid-size station beside the bed so phone charging and lighting do not steal overnight capacity.
FAQ: sizing a portable power station
Is a bigger Wh rating always better?
Not if you never use it. Extra capacity adds weight, cost in GBP, and charging time. Size for your real device list plus a sensible reserve.
Can I run a kettle?
Only if the continuous and surge AC ratings clear the kettle's demand, and only for short boils if you want to protect capacity for the fridge and lights. Many campers boil with gas and keep the station for electronics.
Will solar fully recharge a large station in a British autumn?
Sometimes, on bright days with enough panel wattage. Short, dull days often need driving charge or mains as a back-up. Treat solar as a helper, not a guarantee.
Where can I compare models?
See the CamperNV portable power range. If you want help translating your fridge and CPAP labels into a Wh target, call 0330 122 7773 or visit the contact page. We offer free delivery on all orders to UK mainland addresses.
Bring it together
List your devices, multiply watts by hours, add a reserve, then confirm the inverter can start your hungriest load. Choose chemistry and ports for how you travel, and plan AC, 12 V, and solar recharge before you rely on the unit off-grid. With those numbers in hand, picking a station on CamperNV becomes a clear, confident decision rather than a guess.
